04-30-2014 3:21 PM
I currently have AT&T 1.5Mbps ADSL service from AT&T in Central Florida. I am quite happy with the speed and reliability. I received a call from AT&T offering me to change to U-verse Internet. I currently pay $36 for the 1.5Mbps DSL and they offered the first year of U-verse at $19.95. I asked several questions and got some answers I am not sure of, so jump in and answer any you can. Remember, I am only talking about Internet, not phone or TV service. I have a landline and use an off the air antenna for TV. All I am ordering is U-verse Internet.
1. AT&T said when I change to U-verse Internet, I could stay at 1.5Mbps or upgrade to 3.0Mbps for the same price of $19.95. If I stay at 1.5Mbps, then at the end of one year my price goes back to the same $36 I was paying for ADSL. If I upgrade to 3.0Mbps, my price would go to $46 per month at the end of the year. Nowhere do I see a U-verse service listed at 1.5Mbps and at a price of $36. My needs are modest, so I might want to stay at 1.5Mbps. So, if I make the change, am I probably going to be stuck with going to 3.0Mbps and the $46 monthly charge in one year?
2. AT&T couldn't tell me what router I would be getting other than saying it would be a 2WIRE. I have a Linksys E1200 that I use for wireless and wired connections. I have my ADSL Westell 2200 modem configured as a bridge and the Linksys does all the work, including DHCP. I know I could use the modem/router provided by AT&T for wired and wireless, but I have experienced unresolved router issues with 2WIRE modems and may wish to still use my Linksys behind the 2WIRE. Further, AT&T doesn't even list a 2WIRE router on its website. It does list the Pace routers that replace it. As far as I can tell, regardless of what I get it will be difficult, if not impossible, to get a comprehensive user manual because these modems are sold only by AT&T. So... how good are the 2WIRE (or Pace, or whatever I get) modems as wired and wireless routers? Will I be okay or should I try to get it to work with my Linksys?
3. AT&T said their router had 4 LAN and 6 Wireless connections available. Huh? Other than limiting the IP range, I have never heard of the router limiting wireless connections. Is that true? Is AT&T limiting the number of wireless connections and perhaps charging for more than six? If it merely comes set up with a ten-device IP range, can't I simply go into setup and open up the DHCP range?
4. My deal is supposed to come with no activation or equipment charge. Is that totally true? Will there be a monthly rental charge for the modem?
5. I asked if the router is connected to the same phone wiring as my current ADSL router and AT&T said, "No, it connects wirelessly, like a cell phone." Is that true? Does AT&T really implement their U-verse Internet wirelessly, like a 4G device from a wireless provider? Or, is this AT&T representative really... well.. confused? If it is indeed wireless, I don't think I want it.
6. Assuming my U-verse router will be connected to the phone line, I currently have a DSL filter at my NID, with a cable running from the filter directly to my ADSL modem. Will that same filter work fine with the U-verse router, or will I need a different type of filter?
I would appreciate any answers to any of the above questions.
04-30-2014 3:47 PM
1) you are probably served in an area that doesn't have VDSL2, but has the ADSL2+ flavor of U-verse. That flavor has a lower range of speed offerings, going down as low as 758 kbps. I'm pretty sure that AT&T's "contracted terms" only last the length of the discount, so you could get 3.0 Mbps until the end of the year and should be able to switch back to 1.5 Mbps at the end of the discount period.
2) If you are ADSL2+ you'll probably be getting the Motorolla NVG 510. It can't be placed in true bridge mode, but you can configure your own router behind it, setting the NVG 510 to treat your router in IP Passthrough mode. it's essentially the same thing.
3) I think that number of connections is a suggestion based on the bandwidth of your connection, though if you're going to use your own router, its immaterial.
4) As an Internet only subscriber, you're normally sold your modem at $99. Often they will give you a rebate of $99 to cover that charge. The modem is yours, and comes with a 1 year warranty. They may also give you a credit for any activation charge. If you have any problems with that, come back here and get in touch with the Support crew by PM and get it straightened out.
5) Brava Sierra. It would go on your existing wiring.
6) The VDSL2 filters are very different. With ADSL2+, if you're down in the 3.0 Mbps range, you might make do with the ADSL filters, since you'll never get into the high frequencies at that distance. If you were getting the 18 Mbps ADSL2+, then I'd recommend you get an ADSL2+ filter.
04-30-2014 10:50 PM
Thank you for your quick response. It is thoughtful responses like yours that make this forum useful. Here are some additional questions based on your reply. They follow my original paragraph numbers.
1. The speeds offered locally under U-verse are 3, 6 and 18Mbps. Does that confirm that my area is using ADSL2+ instead VDSL2? There is no fiber to the house, it comes in over my existing phone line.
2. Whichever modem/router I end up with, I will follow the instructions found in this forum to connect my router behind it. I do note that the NVG510 has a detailed setup topic here http://forums.att.com/t5/Residential-Gateway/Using-your-own-router-with-the-Motorola-NVG510-it-absol...
3. It is good to hear that there isn't a fixed limit on the wireless connections.
4. I will clarify when I order that the modem is free and there is no recurring charge.
5. I thought so. Evidentally, the training of the sales reps needs some improvement.
6. If I have any problems with my existing ADSL filter, I can always change it out to an ADSL2+ filter. I have cat5 running from the filter to the modem.
05-01-2014 4:19 AM
1) Few U-verse customers have Fiber to the Premises (FTTP). VDSL2 is still a protocol run over copper in a Fiber to the Node (FTTN) arrangement. The fiber is run to a VRAD constructed near the home, then the VDSL2 protocol is used over the last mile. ADSL2+ can be run from the VRAD over longer connections, but is most often run over copper from the Central Office (CO).
VDSL2 speeds are 45, 24, 18, 12, 6. ADSL2+ speeds are 18, 12, 6, 3, 1.5, 0.75. However, the most obvious way to tell if you're VDSL2 or ADSL2+ is if the salesman tried to sell you IPTV. If not: ADSL2+.
2) Note SomeJoe7777's reply about using IP Passthrough instead of Default Server. This will reduce the processing burden on the RG.
- edited 05-02-2014 8:58 PM by Phil-101
I checked my current DSL splitter and it is a Wilcom PS-11-I2 which is rated for ADSL2+, so I should be good to go.
Now, I just have to check out the phone number the call came from, 1-888-*******, and be sure it is a legitimate AT&T offer. The deal is much better than what I can get on the AT&T website.
[Edited to comply with Guidelines]
05-28-2014 4:23 PM
I turned out that the offer from the telemarketer was incorrect in so many ways. I went to a local ATT store and they said the telemarketer was probably quoting from prices applicable in other neighborhoods with a lower level of service than mine. My neighborhood is in the 3 to 18Mbps Internet range and the best promotional price was $29.95 per month. I went ahead and ordered the 3Mbps service while at the ATT store.
Getting changed over was a frustrating experience that left me without any Internet for four days as multiple calls to ATT support resulting in no help. That story is covered in another forum topic, so I won't repeat it here.
I received a 2Wire 3600HGV modem via UPS. When the tech finally arrived, he found my drop to be fine up to 13.5Mbps. I had ordered 3Mbps so I have a lot of upside potential. The existing Cat5 run from my ADSL+ splitter worked fine. I get connection speeds of 3.84Mbps down and .82Mbps up.
05-28-2014 4:30 PM
I decided for my final setup to use the 2Wire modem/router as is, but with wireless turned off. I then set my Linksys E1200 in bridge mode, set it's static IP address outside of the 2Wire DHCP range and set the Linksys default gateway to the IP address of the 2Wire. With this LAN-LAN connection, my Linksys is acting as a switch with a wireless access point. I chose to use the Linksys for wireless because it supports 802.11n, whereas the 2Wire is only 802.11g. I get much better connections speeds with the Linksys.
05-28-2014 8:13 PM
I have written two replies to this topic, and they both have disappeared, so you'll never know how it turned out. Sorry.
05-28-2014 9:04 PM
Did you not receive a PM explaining why your posts were deleted?
05-28-2014 9:19 PM
No, the first one just disappeared seconds after I posted it. I re-wrote it and that one posted and I got a confirmation email of the posting, then that one disappeared a few seconds later. There was nothing I could see in my content that would merit deletion.