01-16-2016 5:49 AM
My ATTNetgear DSL Modem Model 7550 was replaced yesterday by a Pace 5268AC Gateway. I also have a Asus RT-AC87R Dual Band Router which until the changeout, handled all of the wireless devices and printing in our home. Not any more. After much online research, it appears that the Pace does not have the ability to be placed in Bridge or Passthrough Mode lke the Netgear was or did. It also appears that the Pace does have the ability to function in DMZ plus setup which would allow the Asus router to still function behind the Pace Gateway as it did behind the Netgear Modem. I do not know how to get there from here and try as I might, I can not seem to find instructions on how to set up a router behind the Pace and how to set up the Pace to function ahead of the router. I would not think I was the only person with this issue. If you have overcome this hurdle or know how to help me, I would appreciate any guidance thrown my way.
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01-16-2016 6:35 AM
@Sabaka Set it up from instructions from Computer Joe:
This is what I did to use an "internal" router. I set my "internal" router to use DHCP for the WAN address, plugged it's WAN port in to the RG, reboot the "internal" router, let the RG assign a local address to the "internal" router and then set that address to the DMZ in the RG's management interface. When I go to the "internal" router's management interface it shows as having the same WAN, gateway, and DNS addresses that the RG uses.
I set the "internal" router to assign addresses to "my" side of the network in a different IP range than what the RG uses (192.168.2.* instead of 192.168.1.*) but using the same subnet mask (255.255.255.0). My internet works fine with no interuptions and local network tasks (back ups, streaming, etc.) work as expected.
I can also still access the RG from "my" side of the network when I need to without having to change any network settings or swap any cables. Leave DHCP running on the RG. You do not need to disable the firewall in the RG as the DMZ will open a pinhole through it to the address you pick (your internal router). If you have existing wireless on your router that your satisfied with and want to keep, just make sure to turn off the wireless in the RG.
As for the STBs they should be run straight out of the RG with CAT5 or RG6 Coax.
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02-13-2016 2:02 PM
I would like accomplish the same as the orignal poster, but as a novice, I am not following you're lingo. I have the 5268ac I want to use my ASUS AC 2400 Solely for my WIFI. Can you explain it defining more which router settings your're changing i.e On the 5268ac change, on the 3rd party Router change X. Thank you for the insight..
02-14-2016 10:07 AM
For the 5268ac, you only need to disable the wireless in the wireless settings. Afterwards, you will follow the basic instructions for the ASUS AC 2400 setup, and everything should work fine. You should not need any additional setting for an internet connection.
Hope this helps.
02-14-2016 1:17 PM
Thanks for the reply, and to be sure. I want to run my hard lines from the ASUS router as well, still the same, just turn off the Wirless on the 5268ac?
02-14-2016 1:44 PM
Correct. The only thing connected to your U-verse gateway is the one wire to your ASUS router and all the U-verse equipment, such as the U-verse TV receivers.
06-15-2016 3:31 PM
In reality, you can run anything you want off the U-Verse modem. No real need to turn off anything - just don't use it. The wifi can stay on, just don't connect to it. Plug any router you have as they said from the U-Verse hub port to your personal router WAN port. Set your router for ISP with DHCP and it will get all routing information. Then set up your router any other way you want.
11-01-2016 1:26 PM
I've just been "upgraded" from 18Mbps to 24Mbps. AT&T swapped my trusty old 2Wire 3800HGV-B R/G for the Pace 5268AC. Having had it less than a week, now, here are my initial observations:
1) It drops the WiFi (5GHz) 2-3 times a day; one outage lasted about 20 minutes.
2) It is lacking in functionality when compared to other routers (see No. 6, below).
3) The UI is pretty spartan (which would be OK in and of itself) and very slow.
4) Port forwarding is non-intuitive and hard to set up.
5) It's physically LARGE, unnecessarily so. It weighs next-to-nothing so most of it is the plastic box enclosure.
6) It does not support NAT Loopback (aka "hairpinning" or NAT reflection).
Nos 1 and 6 are deal-breakers (1 for obvious reasons, as it indicates a defective router).
The lack of support for NAT Loopback means that I cannot access an internal IP address (such as a mail server) from my local network using my external IP address or domain name. This is a real problem for mobile devices (such as smartphones and tablets) which can only be configured with one address for a mail server and move in and out of the local network on a daily basis.
I'm thinking of putting my own dual-band WiFi Router that DOES support NAT Loopback behind the AT&T router (as suggested above) letting my router do the "real" work.
Can anyone recommend a (preferably, inexpensive ;-) dual-band WiFi router (e.g., Asus, Linksys, Netgear, etc.) that supports NAT Loopback?
11-04-2016 2:55 PM
@miburnsrg : I'm trying to get NAT Loopback (aka hairpinning or NAT Reflection) to work by using an ASUS RT-N56U model behind AT&T's Pace 5268AC. In your description of a similar setup (above), you say, "When I go to the "internal" router's management interface it shows as having the same WAN, gateway, and DNS addresses that the RG uses." I interpreted "the same WAN" to mean the external IP address (used by the Pack broadband interface). Granted, this seems highly unlikely; what I see on my RT-N56U's WAN interface is a DHCP address (on the Pace's subnet) assigned by the Pace. Unfortunately, this doesn't help me with NAT Loopback; if I hit the external ("WAN") address of the RT-N56U, it detects it and routes it back into my local network. But if I hit the true external address (of the Pace), the RT-N56U doesn't see it as an external IP address, and doesn't do NAT Loopback.
As nearly as I can tell, I've set this up according to your description. I've got the DMZ-Plus mode enabled on the Pace; but even the manual (which is poor, like the UI) suggests that the Pace with assign the downstream router a "special" DHCP address, which, indeed, it appears to be doing.
Am I doing it wrong, or am I just screwed as far as getting NAT Loopback to work with this setup?
05-02-2017 2:20 PM
is there a simpler solve for this? This is really complicated.
Is this the reason I am having intermittent issues with DNS errors?
03-07-2018 3:45 PM
Try removing the line splitter if you have one. I just called AT&T tech support for a Netgear 7550 and they recommended removing the line splitter. So far, removing the line splitter has corrected the dropped internet connections. Apparently the line splitter cuts down on the signal strength of the WiFi.
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