Bridging 2wire 3801HGV and TV

I bridged my ATT 3801HGV router to my shiny new ALLY Amped router and extender.  Those work great, I finally get internet coverage throughout my home (never used to be able to get a connection on the other side of the house, etc., etc.).  We have the AMPED router set to broadcast in the 5GHz range for faster wireless internet speeds.  All of our devices other than the ATT DVR receivers have hooked in to this and are having no problems.

Problem is, I can no longer get AT&T Uverse television.  When I try to watch TV, one of two things happens.  Either I get a message that says :"UVerse is not available at this time.  Please try again later.  I also see a button marked "Reset Receiver".

When I reset the receiver, the same thing happens.

Alternatively, if I just try punching in a channel, I get a message that the channel is parentally locked; however, when I try to put my parental PIN in to unlock the channel (which was never really PIN locked in the first place), I get a message that says "PIN information is not available at this time".

I would prefer not to switch internet and television services; however, I really need both to work.

The U-verse TV receivers are still connected directly to the 3801?  By what medium?

When you set the 3801 to "bridge," what did you actually do (since there is no bridge setting on the 3801)?

Here is what I have (I am not very technically savvy, so forgive me if this is a bit pedantic).

The line in for our house is a phone line.  It comes in at the same location that the coax goes out to the rest of the house.  I am showing this in pictures so I do not accidentally omit anything.

The data line comes in this faceplate via an RJ-22 phone line. Beneath the RJ22 line is the Coax return that goes to all the various television sets in the house.The back of the 3810 HGV. The RJ22 line is split; half goes into the green "DSL" port; the other half goes to the white "phone line" port (though we no longer have a land line). The coax cable goes from this unit back to the return in the first picture. The CAT5 cable goes from an ethernet port on this unit to the "modem" port on the ALLY Amped.The back of the ALLY Amped. The CAT5 on the left came from the 3801HGV and plugs into a port labeled "modem". The other CAT-5 cable goes from an ethernet port to the Power Injector in the next photo.This is the power injector. I really ahve no idea waht it does. The CAT5 cable came from an ethernet port on the ALLY Amped. Beneath the power cord there is a CAT5 port labeled "data". I do not believe a cable has ever been plugged into that port.The back of the DVR. The coax comes in from the wall; the HDML goes out to the television. This was not touched during the ALLY Amped installation. 

To set up the ALLY Amped, we followed the instructions in this Youtube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZy1C5qHxKc

Note that this guy's new router is a netgear router rather than an ALLY Amped.  The video shows how to set up the ATT router into a "Router behind Router" configuration.

Everything checked out and the ALLY Amped works perfectly (as does the extender in another room).  Unfortunately, the UVerse television no longer functions (as I indicated above).

Listen to my thoughts, he's been there and done that, but in regards to your Ethernet wiring:

A PoE Injector puts power on two of the leads of an Cat5e cable to supply power to a remote device that cannot be powered directly because it's in a place inconvenient to run a power cord to.  One ready example of such a device is a ceiling mounted Wireless Access Point; you've got to run the Ethernet cable to the ceiling, so let it carry the power too.

The way you've got your injector wired, it's supplying power to the Ethernet cable running to port 1 of your Amped Wireless ALLY.  This seems very, very strange.  One, because your Amped Wireless ALLY is connected to a wall power adapter.  Two, because I can find no specs that state that a Amped Wireless ALLY can be powered via PoE.  Three, if it could be powered by PoE, it would normally accept that on the WAN interface, not on one of the LAN interfaces.  So... I think you could safely remove that Ethernet cable, the PoE injector and its power supply from your setup.

I tried to look at the video, but it was 22 minutes long and I lost patience.

my thoughts-

Thank you so much.  I actually got it working by simply doing a hard reset of the AT&T router while the ALLY Amped remained connected to it via CAT-5 cable.  Once the router reset, I was able to get my television channels just fine, and the ALLY network is still up and running (per the app).  I also verified the extender was working by walking into our bedroom on the far side of the house and checking to see if I had a signal (before the extender, I never had more than one bar -- tonight I had three.  I really appreciate your help with this!

JefferMC -

After I reset the router, I went ahead and unplugged the CAT-5 cable from the power injector.  You were right.  It runs fine without it.  Thanks for explaining that!