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Posted Aug 24, 2011
2:05:25 AM
cb6614

I was wondering if there was a way we could commicate. You seem to be able to help people with their SLOW dsl or at least try to.

 

Basically like many others I live in CA and have HORRIBLE dl sppeds, like 330kb/s when we are supposed to be getting(6MB/s  did i say that right?) Anyways we have the elite package and i feel my sisters been getting ripped off by att with the speeds shes been getting. To her its "no big deal" to me its not only a waste of money but I need it to work for the stuff i do on the internet.

 

Ill wait for a reply, Im not very knowledgeable about this stuff by if walked through im sure i can make it through Smiley Happy

I was wondering if there was a way we could commicate. You seem to be able to help people with their SLOW dsl or at least try to.

 

Basically like many others I live in CA and have HORRIBLE dl sppeds, like 330kb/s when we are supposed to be getting(6MB/s  did i say that right?) Anyways we have the elite package and i feel my sisters been getting ripped off by att with the speeds shes been getting. To her its "no big deal" to me its not only a waste of money but I need it to work for the stuff i do on the internet.

 

Ill wait for a reply, Im not very knowledgeable about this stuff by if walked through im sure i can make it through Smiley Happy

cb6614

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Aug 25, 2011 7:17:44 AM
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Hi wlfpack!

California with slow speed huh? I'm sorry to say that I'm quickly becoming very familiar with that subject. I'll be glad to help you in any way that I possibly can. Here's what we need as far as info to get started:

 

1.) What is the make and model number of your modem?

2.) Is your DSL service what's called "Dry Loop" (where's there's no land line phone attached to the DSL number) or do you have DSL and POTS combined? (POTS ='s Plain Old Telephone Service)

3.) If you have a home phone that shares the DSL line from AT&T  then EVERY phone, fax, credit card machine, satellite TV box, answering machine, or anything else that connects to ANY phone jack in the house using that phone number MUST have a DSL filter installed directly to the wall jack and before the device's phone cable is connected. ALSO, the modem should NOT have a DSL filter installed on it UNLESS the modem shares a telephone jack with another device like a phone or fax. In cases such as this, you'll want to connect the dual line DSL filter directly to the wall jack first (before any other splitter or anything else). Once the filter is connected, connect the modem to the "DSL" side of the filter and then if you need to split the line again from that jack, connect the splitter to the "Phone" side of the filter, and connect your telephony devices from there. 

4.) Which operating system are you running?

** If you're not sure and it's a machine running any version of Microsoft Windows here's how you find out:

Locate the "flag" or "Windows" key on your keyboard, usually by looking to the bottom left side of the keyboard between the CTRL and ALT keys. Once you find the flag key, press it and the letter "R" at the same time. This will open the "RUN" dialogue box where you can type the name of a program to open. Type "winver' in the run box and hit ENTER or click OK. That should generate a pop-up window showing which version of Windows you are using. 

** If you are using an Apple computer and you don't know which version of Mac OS you're running here's how to find out: 

Look to the top left of your computer's screen and click the "Apple" icon in the tool bar. Then click "About this Mac". This will generate a pop-up window showing "Mac OS X" and then below the heading, you'll see "Version 10.x.x".

5.) If you are using a "single user" modem from AT&T and then connecting a wireless router for more than one computer to be used with your connection, what is the make and model number of the router?

 

Once you get this info, post it here, and we'll go from there. The next thing we'll need to look at will be your DSL port statistics and I'll tell you how to find them once we know the make and model of your modem. 

Hi wlfpack!

California with slow speed huh? I'm sorry to say that I'm quickly becoming very familiar with that subject. I'll be glad to help you in any way that I possibly can. Here's what we need as far as info to get started:

 

1.) What is the make and model number of your modem?

2.) Is your DSL service what's called "Dry Loop" (where's there's no land line phone attached to the DSL number) or do you have DSL and POTS combined? (POTS ='s Plain Old Telephone Service)

3.) If you have a home phone that shares the DSL line from AT&T  then EVERY phone, fax, credit card machine, satellite TV box, answering machine, or anything else that connects to ANY phone jack in the house using that phone number MUST have a DSL filter installed directly to the wall jack and before the device's phone cable is connected. ALSO, the modem should NOT have a DSL filter installed on it UNLESS the modem shares a telephone jack with another device like a phone or fax. In cases such as this, you'll want to connect the dual line DSL filter directly to the wall jack first (before any other splitter or anything else). Once the filter is connected, connect the modem to the "DSL" side of the filter and then if you need to split the line again from that jack, connect the splitter to the "Phone" side of the filter, and connect your telephony devices from there. 

4.) Which operating system are you running?

** If you're not sure and it's a machine running any version of Microsoft Windows here's how you find out:

Locate the "flag" or "Windows" key on your keyboard, usually by looking to the bottom left side of the keyboard between the CTRL and ALT keys. Once you find the flag key, press it and the letter "R" at the same time. This will open the "RUN" dialogue box where you can type the name of a program to open. Type "winver' in the run box and hit ENTER or click OK. That should generate a pop-up window showing which version of Windows you are using. 

** If you are using an Apple computer and you don't know which version of Mac OS you're running here's how to find out: 

Look to the top left of your computer's screen and click the "Apple" icon in the tool bar. Then click "About this Mac". This will generate a pop-up window showing "Mac OS X" and then below the heading, you'll see "Version 10.x.x".

5.) If you are using a "single user" modem from AT&T and then connecting a wireless router for more than one computer to be used with your connection, what is the make and model number of the router?

 

Once you get this info, post it here, and we'll go from there. The next thing we'll need to look at will be your DSL port statistics and I'll tell you how to find them once we know the make and model of your modem. 

Re: cb6614

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Aug 25, 2011 2:05:52 PM
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1. motorola  style:mstatea(i think that should be all you need)

2. POTS

3.yep my sister has that on the one phone in the kitchen

4. windows 7 64bit. verison 6.1(build 7601 service pack 1)

5.Router is a netgear n300 wireless router WNR2000

 

 

my hours this week are really strange so ill respond as soon as i can, but my i get emails from this post so i shouldnt miss anything.

 

Thanks again

1. motorola  style:mstatea(i think that should be all you need)

2. POTS

3.yep my sister has that on the one phone in the kitchen

4. windows 7 64bit. verison 6.1(build 7601 service pack 1)

5.Router is a netgear n300 wireless router WNR2000

 

 

my hours this week are really strange so ill respond as soon as i can, but my i get emails from this post so i shouldnt miss anything.

 

Thanks again

Re: cb6614

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Aug 25, 2011 11:31:50 PM
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Okay, so we're working with a single user, silver Motorola 2210 2.0 that connects to a Netgear WNR2000 wireless router. If you've already checked all of the fliters in the house to find them installed correctly, then the next thing to do is check your DSL statistics at the modem. Do you have the Motorola configured for PPPoE or is it set to act as an Ethernet bridge for the Netgear? If you're not sure, check the Internet light on the Motorola. If you find the Internet light is green, then the modem is configured for PPPoE and we can proceed. If the Internet light is OFF and you can still surf, then the modem is most likely bridged and we'll have to go a different route. I'll continue this post under the assumption that the Internet light is ON and the modem is configured for PPPoE. 

 

We need to get to the user interface for the modem. To do this, you'll have to connect a computer directly to the Motorola with the Ethernet cable that you have connected to the Netgear, bypassing the router. After this is done, you'll open a web browser and type the following in it's address bar (http://192.168.1.254). You may be prompted for a "device access code". If you are, look on the bottom of the modem itself and it should be listed clearly (usually on a yellow sticker). Type that code in the prompt and log in. I've looked around for some screenshots to post here as examples but depending on where you got the modem, there are at least 3 different versions of its firmware in use right now. So there's no telling exactly what your screen will look like. Once you get to the user interface, you should see something like "Login, Advanced, and Diagnostics" or you might see something displayed as "Home Summary, Broadband DSL Line, Home Network, and Diagnostics". You'll just need to fish around a bit until you see a section that displays the following type of information (the wording may not be exact here but it will be similar):

 

1.) DSL Line Sync (or) DSL Sync Rate (or) MAX Allowed Speed: This value is known as the "sync rate" and directly affects your DSL speeds.

 

2.) SN Margin (db) (or) SNR Up/Dn (or) NM Up/Dn: This will be the "signal to noise" ratio for the DSL signal you're modem is getting. This value helps determine whether or not you may have interference on your line. 

 

3.) Line Attenuation (or) Attn up/dn: This is important because its indicative of the DSL signal's strength at your modem. When taken into account with the signal to noise ratio and the sync rate, the line attenuation values can help make an educated guess at your loop length from the CO/DSLAM. Your speed tier will be determined by your loop length because the "higher" DSL speeds require less distance from the CO/DSLAM.

 

These are just some of the listings in the section we need to look at. Once you start seeing the information I've listed above, take a screenshot of that page and post it here (it should display anything that can specifically identify the account nor cause any kind of "privacy" issues doing so). After we review all the values listed on that page we'll have a better idea of what our next step should be. Good luck

Okay, so we're working with a single user, silver Motorola 2210 2.0 that connects to a Netgear WNR2000 wireless router. If you've already checked all of the fliters in the house to find them installed correctly, then the next thing to do is check your DSL statistics at the modem. Do you have the Motorola configured for PPPoE or is it set to act as an Ethernet bridge for the Netgear? If you're not sure, check the Internet light on the Motorola. If you find the Internet light is green, then the modem is configured for PPPoE and we can proceed. If the Internet light is OFF and you can still surf, then the modem is most likely bridged and we'll have to go a different route. I'll continue this post under the assumption that the Internet light is ON and the modem is configured for PPPoE. 

 

We need to get to the user interface for the modem. To do this, you'll have to connect a computer directly to the Motorola with the Ethernet cable that you have connected to the Netgear, bypassing the router. After this is done, you'll open a web browser and type the following in it's address bar (http://192.168.1.254). You may be prompted for a "device access code". If you are, look on the bottom of the modem itself and it should be listed clearly (usually on a yellow sticker). Type that code in the prompt and log in. I've looked around for some screenshots to post here as examples but depending on where you got the modem, there are at least 3 different versions of its firmware in use right now. So there's no telling exactly what your screen will look like. Once you get to the user interface, you should see something like "Login, Advanced, and Diagnostics" or you might see something displayed as "Home Summary, Broadband DSL Line, Home Network, and Diagnostics". You'll just need to fish around a bit until you see a section that displays the following type of information (the wording may not be exact here but it will be similar):

 

1.) DSL Line Sync (or) DSL Sync Rate (or) MAX Allowed Speed: This value is known as the "sync rate" and directly affects your DSL speeds.

 

2.) SN Margin (db) (or) SNR Up/Dn (or) NM Up/Dn: This will be the "signal to noise" ratio for the DSL signal you're modem is getting. This value helps determine whether or not you may have interference on your line. 

 

3.) Line Attenuation (or) Attn up/dn: This is important because its indicative of the DSL signal's strength at your modem. When taken into account with the signal to noise ratio and the sync rate, the line attenuation values can help make an educated guess at your loop length from the CO/DSLAM. Your speed tier will be determined by your loop length because the "higher" DSL speeds require less distance from the CO/DSLAM.

 

These are just some of the listings in the section we need to look at. Once you start seeing the information I've listed above, take a screenshot of that page and post it here (it should display anything that can specifically identify the account nor cause any kind of "privacy" issues doing so). After we review all the values listed on that page we'll have a better idea of what our next step should be. Good luck

Re: cb6614

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Aug 26, 2011 2:34:21 AM
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i think i found it. But one question WHY, when i went looking into the 192.168.1.254 it would alone allow it to open in IE?  This well kinda irritates me as i thought i was putting the wrong intformation in even though you gave it to me an it was on the bottom of the modem Smiley Happy

 

 

 

 

I had tot ake it in three shots but now that i think about it you only probably wanted the first picture, better safe then sorry at almost 3am PST lol

i think i found it. But one question WHY, when i went looking into the 192.168.1.254 it would alone allow it to open in IE?  This well kinda irritates me as i thought i was putting the wrong intformation in even though you gave it to me an it was on the bottom of the modem Smiley Happy

 

 

 

 

I had tot ake it in three shots but now that i think about it you only probably wanted the first picture, better safe then sorry at almost 3am PST lol

Re: cb6614

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Aug 26, 2011 2:40:18 AM
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Edited by htfdwlfpack on Aug 26, 2011 at 2:41:53 AM

Im worried for some reason you wont be able to see the values so im going to also post them on a site that you can go and look at them if you wish( i always worry im going to do it wrong lol)

 

http://i52.tinypic.com/33tnvkj.png

 

http://i56.tinypic.com/2e5rvko.png

 

 

http://i55.tinypic.com/2zsbeab.png

Im worried for some reason you wont be able to see the values so im going to also post them on a site that you can go and look at them if you wish( i always worry im going to do it wrong lol)

 

http://i52.tinypic.com/33tnvkj.png

 

http://i56.tinypic.com/2e5rvko.png

 

 

http://i55.tinypic.com/2zsbeab.png

Re: cb6614

[ Edited ]
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Aug 27, 2011 7:02:13 PM
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I glad you were able to jump through all of the hoops and get to the right part of the user interface. You were right, we really only needed the first screenshot but better safe than sorry. Quick thing about you only being able to access the modem when using IE… Were you clicking the link I put in the post? If so and IE was coming up, that means that IE is set for your "default" web browser. Is that what you meant or were you talking about only getting "search listings" when you tried typing the numbers in your address bar? If you were typing in the address bar, I've seen typo's cause such or other times people are mistaking a "search" bar for the address bar. Hope that answer's your question on the browser and IE. I'm going to go over that first page screenshot with you because that's the important one for your concerns. Also if you're anything like I am, you like to know all that you can on a subject so I'll provide some links for more info during some of the things I talk about. This way you can better understand some of the terms and others who find this post and want to learn more can use the links well. Let's begin the review.


Starting with "DSL Information":
The "line state" should be pretty self explanatory as either "Up" (IN SYNC) where a connection is possible or it the line state could be "Down" (OUT OF SYNC) where a connection cannot be made. This value directly relates to the "DSL" light on the front of your modem.

Steady Green= IN SYNC

Flashing Green= Modem attempting to gain sync

Flashing Red/Green: Modem failed to sync 3 times

Flashing Red: No DSL signal is detected on the line.

(More info on the LED's and your modem's user manual can be found by clicking the link below. Your modem's firmware is a bit different but the functions of the device remain the same.): 

http://broadband.motorola.com/consumers/products/2210-02/downloads/2210-02_UserManual.pdf
After the Line State we find the "Modulation" and your's is reported correctly as "DMT". This is correct and should not change. (More info on Modulation can be found by clicking the link below):

http://www.ehow.com/list_6158925_dsl-modem-modulation-types.html
After the Modulation, we find the "Data Path". This refers to the DSL Signal and how it is sent from the outside network through the phone lines to your modem. Your's is set to "FAST" and that's the best setting to be on. "FAST" means the ISP hasn't had to adjust (or "Interleave") your signal for more stability due to interference that cannot be resolved. An interleaved DSL signal can also cause latency and that can translate to "slow" Internet speeds. Since your signal isn't interleaved, we know that's not part of what's causing the problem and we can move on. (More info on "Data Path" values can be found here):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asymmetric_Digital_Subscriber_Line#Interleaving_and_fastpath

 

Moving on to the next section, you said that the connection should be at 6Megs. The "Max Allowed Speed" (sync rate) shows this modem is only syncing up at 3008Kbps (3.008Mbs) downstream and that is a bit below where it should be for 6Meg service. Most 6.0Meg connections actually sync between 6 and 8 Megabits downstream. The next step down after 6Meg service is usually 3Meg service and that normally has a sync rate right around 3.5Megs downstream. Your connection isn't quite syncing at an "acceptable" rate for 3Meg much less 6Meg. (More on "sync" can be found by clicking here. http://www.dslreports.com/faq/481) Are you positive that you pay for 6.0Meg DSL and not 3.0Meg service? If you are paying for 6.0Meg, don't start dialing customer service just yet. There are a couple of things that can cause a 6.0Meg signal to sync as low as this one. Before we start calling about the bill, let's eliminate those causes first. One thing we should check is the length and condition of the data cable (RJ11/Phone cable) connecting the modem to the wall jack. Is it crimped, scared, or showing any other signs of wear and damage? Is the cable more than 10 (maximum 15) feet long? If "yes" to either question, get a shorter phone cable in better condition, install it, and check the diagnostics page of the modem again for any improvement. Otherwise, we'll move on. Next is your "SN Margin" which is displayed as 20.0dB downstream and 21.0dB upstream. If there was an issue with interference on this line, you'd see the "SN Margin" values closer to 6-7.0dB and below. An "un-interleaved" DSL signal with noise margins as high as yours shows the line is pretty clean and free from interference. Moving to the "Line Attenuation" we find this line reports 34.0dB downstream and 21.0dB upstream. That tells us the loop length of this line should be less than about 6000ft and signal should be strong enough for 6.0Meg DSL service. Once the attenuation starts getting above about 36 to 38.0dB is when it might be best to think about changing the account to a lower speed like 3.0Meg because the signal is being stretched over a greater distance from the CO/DSLAM. We also see the modem has had zero instances of "signal loss", zero instances of "frame loss" since the last time the modem was reset, and DSL statistics support this. Finally the last value for the DSL Information is the "CRC Errors" listing. Finding 2 errors downstream and 3 errors upstream is considered to be low. When I say low I mean, you shouldn't be concerned with these until they start reaching into the multiple hundreds or so. (If you want to know more about CRC Errors you can look here):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclic_redundancy_check


The next thing I would look at is found listed under "ATM Information" for the Virtual Path Identifier (VPI) and Virtual Channel Identifier (VCI). (More on VPI/VCI can be found here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virtual_Channel_Identifier) These values can vary depending on the Internet Service Provider you use. AT&T's network across the US is broken up into regions and different regions have different settings. From what I've been able to find online for AT&T in California, your VCI should be set one of two different values. It will either be "0" (which it is and most likely should be set to) or "8". The Virtual Path Identifier (VPI) seems to be constantly set throughout AT&T's US networks at 35, so no changes there. A little more research found that apparently since June of 2000 AT&T West (PAC Bell territory) DSL users should have the VCI 0 and VPI 35 but that's just what I found on DSL Reports' website. If all else fails, we might try testing your connection with the VCI set to 8 and the VPI set to 35 then check for any improvement. (Here's a link to a thread discussion on this subject if you want to review it for yourself. http://www.broadbandreports.com/forum/r12185584-VCI-VPI-) If do you need to adjust the VPI/VCI settings, go to the user interface for the Motorola, click "Advanced" and then click "Connection Configuration". Once on that page, you'll see the VPI and VCI settings under the username/password fields and above the Protocol Setting (PPPoE). The rest of the settings on this page should already be correct since you are able to surf. 


So to summarize, the first thing I would do is check that data cable. If all is well there, check your bill to see if you subscribe to 3.0Meg service or 6.0Meg service. If you are paying for 3.0Meg service, we're probably just dealing with a "data cable" or "modem configuration" issue and the steps above should resolve the sync rate back to around 3.5Megs downstream. You should test your speeds to make sure they are near 3Megs. If there is no improvement, the next steps would be to look at the Netgear, computer, and traffic on your LAN (behind the modem). BUT if you subscribe to 6.0Meg service, review the list below to see if you can say all are true.

----

The modem is new.

The data cable is less than 10-15ft long and unfiltered.

The modem is not getting its power through a surge protector or power strip; meaning the modem's power supply is connected directly to a wall plug.

All phones/devices connected to your DSL number are filtered correctly and the modem is only filtered if it is sharing the telephone jack in the wall with another telephony device, otherwise don't filter the modem. 

You have NO alarm system.

-----

If all of the above are true and you are paying for 6.0Meg service but only getting a 3.0Meg signal, there is either an issue with the way the account is "provisioned" (programed on AT&T's network) or a wiring issue. Either way, you'll have to look to AT&T to resolve that one. I'll be around if you need anymore help and best of luck to you!



I glad you were able to jump through all of the hoops and get to the right part of the user interface. You were right, we really only needed the first screenshot but better safe than sorry. Quick thing about you only being able to access the modem when using IE… Were you clicking the link I put in the post? If so and IE was coming up, that means that IE is set for your "default" web browser. Is that what you meant or were you talking about only getting "search listings" when you tried typing the numbers in your address bar? If you were typing in the address bar, I've seen typo's cause such or other times people are mistaking a "search" bar for the address bar. Hope that answer's your question on the browser and IE. I'm going to go over that first page screenshot with you because that's the important one for your concerns. Also if you're anything like I am, you like to know all that you can on a subject so I'll provide some links for more info during some of the things I talk about. This way you can better understand some of the terms and others who find this post and want to learn more can use the links well. Let's begin the review.


Starting with "DSL Information":
The "line state" should be pretty self explanatory as either "Up" (IN SYNC) where a connection is possible or it the line state could be "Down" (OUT OF SYNC) where a connection cannot be made. This value directly relates to the "DSL" light on the front of your modem.

Steady Green= IN SYNC

Flashing Green= Modem attempting to gain sync

Flashing Red/Green: Modem failed to sync 3 times

Flashing Red: No DSL signal is detected on the line.

(More info on the LED's and your modem's user manual can be found by clicking the link below. Your modem's firmware is a bit different but the functions of the device remain the same.): 

http://broadband.motorola.com/consumers/products/2210-02/downloads/2210-02_UserManual.pdf
After the Line State we find the "Modulation" and your's is reported correctly as "DMT". This is correct and should not change. (More info on Modulation can be found by clicking the link below):

http://www.ehow.com/list_6158925_dsl-modem-modulation-types.html
After the Modulation, we find the "Data Path". This refers to the DSL Signal and how it is sent from the outside network through the phone lines to your modem. Your's is set to "FAST" and that's the best setting to be on. "FAST" means the ISP hasn't had to adjust (or "Interleave") your signal for more stability due to interference that cannot be resolved. An interleaved DSL signal can also cause latency and that can translate to "slow" Internet speeds. Since your signal isn't interleaved, we know that's not part of what's causing the problem and we can move on. (More info on "Data Path" values can be found here):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asymmetric_Digital_Subscriber_Line#Interleaving_and_fastpath

 

Moving on to the next section, you said that the connection should be at 6Megs. The "Max Allowed Speed" (sync rate) shows this modem is only syncing up at 3008Kbps (3.008Mbs) downstream and that is a bit below where it should be for 6Meg service. Most 6.0Meg connections actually sync between 6 and 8 Megabits downstream. The next step down after 6Meg service is usually 3Meg service and that normally has a sync rate right around 3.5Megs downstream. Your connection isn't quite syncing at an "acceptable" rate for 3Meg much less 6Meg. (More on "sync" can be found by clicking here. http://www.dslreports.com/faq/481) Are you positive that you pay for 6.0Meg DSL and not 3.0Meg service? If you are paying for 6.0Meg, don't start dialing customer service just yet. There are a couple of things that can cause a 6.0Meg signal to sync as low as this one. Before we start calling about the bill, let's eliminate those causes first. One thing we should check is the length and condition of the data cable (RJ11/Phone cable) connecting the modem to the wall jack. Is it crimped, scared, or showing any other signs of wear and damage? Is the cable more than 10 (maximum 15) feet long? If "yes" to either question, get a shorter phone cable in better condition, install it, and check the diagnostics page of the modem again for any improvement. Otherwise, we'll move on. Next is your "SN Margin" which is displayed as 20.0dB downstream and 21.0dB upstream. If there was an issue with interference on this line, you'd see the "SN Margin" values closer to 6-7.0dB and below. An "un-interleaved" DSL signal with noise margins as high as yours shows the line is pretty clean and free from interference. Moving to the "Line Attenuation" we find this line reports 34.0dB downstream and 21.0dB upstream. That tells us the loop length of this line should be less than about 6000ft and signal should be strong enough for 6.0Meg DSL service. Once the attenuation starts getting above about 36 to 38.0dB is when it might be best to think about changing the account to a lower speed like 3.0Meg because the signal is being stretched over a greater distance from the CO/DSLAM. We also see the modem has had zero instances of "signal loss", zero instances of "frame loss" since the last time the modem was reset, and DSL statistics support this. Finally the last value for the DSL Information is the "CRC Errors" listing. Finding 2 errors downstream and 3 errors upstream is considered to be low. When I say low I mean, you shouldn't be concerned with these until they start reaching into the multiple hundreds or so. (If you want to know more about CRC Errors you can look here):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclic_redundancy_check


The next thing I would look at is found listed under "ATM Information" for the Virtual Path Identifier (VPI) and Virtual Channel Identifier (VCI). (More on VPI/VCI can be found here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virtual_Channel_Identifier) These values can vary depending on the Internet Service Provider you use. AT&T's network across the US is broken up into regions and different regions have different settings. From what I've been able to find online for AT&T in California, your VCI should be set one of two different values. It will either be "0" (which it is and most likely should be set to) or "8". The Virtual Path Identifier (VPI) seems to be constantly set throughout AT&T's US networks at 35, so no changes there. A little more research found that apparently since June of 2000 AT&T West (PAC Bell territory) DSL users should have the VCI 0 and VPI 35 but that's just what I found on DSL Reports' website. If all else fails, we might try testing your connection with the VCI set to 8 and the VPI set to 35 then check for any improvement. (Here's a link to a thread discussion on this subject if you want to review it for yourself. http://www.broadbandreports.com/forum/r12185584-VCI-VPI-) If do you need to adjust the VPI/VCI settings, go to the user interface for the Motorola, click "Advanced" and then click "Connection Configuration". Once on that page, you'll see the VPI and VCI settings under the username/password fields and above the Protocol Setting (PPPoE). The rest of the settings on this page should already be correct since you are able to surf. 


So to summarize, the first thing I would do is check that data cable. If all is well there, check your bill to see if you subscribe to 3.0Meg service or 6.0Meg service. If you are paying for 3.0Meg service, we're probably just dealing with a "data cable" or "modem configuration" issue and the steps above should resolve the sync rate back to around 3.5Megs downstream. You should test your speeds to make sure they are near 3Megs. If there is no improvement, the next steps would be to look at the Netgear, computer, and traffic on your LAN (behind the modem). BUT if you subscribe to 6.0Meg service, review the list below to see if you can say all are true.

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The modem is new.

The data cable is less than 10-15ft long and unfiltered.

The modem is not getting its power through a surge protector or power strip; meaning the modem's power supply is connected directly to a wall plug.

All phones/devices connected to your DSL number are filtered correctly and the modem is only filtered if it is sharing the telephone jack in the wall with another telephony device, otherwise don't filter the modem. 

You have NO alarm system.

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If all of the above are true and you are paying for 6.0Meg service but only getting a 3.0Meg signal, there is either an issue with the way the account is "provisioned" (programed on AT&T's network) or a wiring issue. Either way, you'll have to look to AT&T to resolve that one. I'll be around if you need anymore help and best of luck to you!



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